But rain means lush surroundings precipitating verdant greenery… and bugs, so be prepared. COVID-19 Update from New River Gorge CVB . Briefly, the National Park Service mission is to protect park resources for future generations, while providing opportunities to enjoy these resources at present. 5-Days, All inclusive. They offer customized climbing instruction, from learning to place your first nut and anchor building, to yoga retreats, and mental training. The cliffs are distinct for being long and with few breaks. It could help river advocates fight for cleaner water running through the gorge and should ensure access to the world-class climbing inside the new park boundaries for generations to come. Nearly all climbs are single-pitch and range from 30 to 150 feet in height. Climbing Season can become bootie-trembling slab that ends with uber-technical face climbing, which is guaranteed to put all your skills to the test. Camping is prohibited within 100 feet of parking areas, water sources, historic sites, or the top rim of the cliffs. Thanks Matt! Always change clothes out of view. Other activities include riding the Gravity Zipline, a 1.5-mile tour 200 feet above the ground or a down-to-earth walk along the iconic New River Gorge Bridge. The 3-day fest includes live music, clinics taught by pro athletes, conservation efforts, a pig roast, beer and whiskey, and a glow stick dance party. A grassroots rock climbing advocacy and anchor-replacement organization in and around WV's New River Gorge. If you’re around in October, stop by for Bridge Day, the world’s largest BASE jumping event. TEEN ROCK CAMP. Hide or remove all valuables while climbing, and lock vehicles. While we are open for business, we want to ensure that everyone has an amazing and safe experience in our region. Between the three major river gorges- the New, the Gauley/Summersville, and the Meadow- there are over 3,000 established routes on 60+ miles of cliffline, as well as hundreds of established boulder problems. Check here to review park planning documents and participate in the park planning process. P.O. The New River Gorge CVB and the surrounding areas are all focused on the health and well-being of those in our area. The Fastest Way to Fix a Backclip. Showers can be purchased at many of the private campgrounds in the area. Camping options include a private site, complete with a 10’x10′ wooden tent platform, and a communal area. If you like to mix brains and brawn in your climbing, the technical nature of the routes will tickle your cerebral proclivities. The New River Gorge has become a major rock-climbing destination. As always, abide by Leave No Trace ethics. The New River Gorge offers up some of the best climbing in the world. Private Property Most of the routes in the gorge favor the advanced and expert climber. The greater New River Gorge region is one of the East's largest, most diverse, and highest quality climbing areas. Water Stone Outdoors has been selling quality outdoor gear in Fayetteville, West Virginia 362 days a year for over 20 years. Do not trespass on private property. Like history? The New River Gorge, WV rock climbing is composed of three river gorges - New, Gauley, and Meadow. Glen Jean, WV Encircling the New River Gorge National River area is … Parking and Security Get in-depth reviews and expert advice to help you start planning your next big outdoor adventure. Annual rainfall is about 50 inches, which is approaching temperate rainforest levels. Our guide Matt was wonderful. Join thousands of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter! New River Gorge Climbing. Stay up-to-date with the latest outdoor adventure stories and get exclusive offers delivered straight to your inbox. Lots of 5.12 and 5.13 steep sport routes to … Despite its name, the New River is one of the oldest rivers in the world. This 5-day overnight camp is geared towards introducing teens to outdoor rock climbing while reinforcing teamwork and cooperation. Classic Climbs for The New River Gorge. The state is known colloquially as “Wet Virginia,” so even a week-long trip in the shoulder seasons has the possibility of getting hosed. Spring and fall are the seasons for sending if only the weather would comply. Travel Destinations. You’ll find a diversity of movement here. The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. Read the summary of the Climbing Community Meeting held on October 27, 2018. Climbing can be had in the winter at The Cirque at Endless Wall, a southern-facing sector that acts like a convection oven. The NRG is a National River and one of the oldest in the world. Exposed coal seams are interspersed throughout the stone (which precipitated mining in the area). You won’t find a better guide than Grant Price, the head guide for Blue Ridge Mountain Guides. New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 01. Besides the spectacular sandstone, stunning settings, and sheer number of routes (3000 + trad and sport routes from 5.6 to 5.14d), one of the factors that makes the New River Gorge the premier climbing destination in the East is the possibility of year-round climbing. Many of the developers were over six feet tall, so prepare for long moves and spaced out bolts. The New River Gorge is known as the best East Coast climbing destination for a reason: There are more than 1,500 established climbing routes in the area. Well, do ya, punk? While DWS (deep-water soloing) is tempting, cliff jumping and diving from six feet or above the water is prohibited. Likewise, be sure to stop by Fayetteville, a charming post-industrial town that’s remade itself into an outdoor haven. It resides on a 40-acre parcel and is within walking distance of popular crags, including Junkyard. There are over 1,400 established rock climbing routes in the gorge, running the gamut of formations from Utah-style splitter cracks to tricky arêtes. The New River Gorge is a special place, the environment, the community and climbs, and maybe something that can’t be put in words make it what it is. Share. Summer temps can reach into the 90s, turning the humid air into thick molasses. There are numerous markets and eating establishments in nearby towns.establishments in nearby towns. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. NEW RIVER MOUNTAIN GUIDES. “Just coming from out of town, to a climbing area, looking at that guidebook, it’s damn near impossible to climb a route called ‘The Racist’ and go and camp in the woods and not feel like you’re going to get lynched when you go to sleep.” You can read more of his work at aarongerry.com, What else should we know before connecting you with the guide? ... -The Glory Hole – Steep climbing here only!! TWENTY YEARS AND GOING STRONG! Most crags have a 15-minute approach, though longer treks can be up to 45 minutes, with some requiring a ladder or rappel to get to the base. It sits on the southeast corner of the state. Please seek qualified instruction before venturing onto the cliffs. If you want to get into outdoor climbing as a relative beginner, if you want to improve your already strong skills, or if you just want to explore lots of routes with experts who know the New River Gorge area extremely well, you should definitely choose the New River Climbing School. Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 3. The New River Gorge is composed of three river gorges: New, Gauley, and Meadow. Mountain Project's determination of the most popular, highly-rated routes. Water is available at Canyon Rim Visitor Center. John Denver got it right. For security reasons, do not leave vehicles unattended overnight at parking areas or trailheads. A guidebook is an essential tool for locating climbs, and local climbing shops can offer information and specific recommendations. If you’re a big fan of whitewater rafting or climbing, you’re probably already familiar with the New. Date of experience: September 2015. In times of rain, the Rico Suave Buttress and White Wall at the Kaymoor sector generally stay pretty dry. Upper Meadow: Known mainly for sport climbing. While climbing can take place any time of year, the best months are usually late April to mid-June, and mid-September to late October. Popular areas include classic riverside spots such as Hawks Nest Dam and Cotton Bottom, as well as the good-for-a-rainy-day Junkyard cave. the better-known sport climbing mecca four hours west, “Juan Pablo Tellez, Reckless Abandon 12b, The Coliseum – Summersville Lake, WV, Symon Ardila, Lactic Acid Bath 12.d, The Hole, New River Gorge, WV, imprisonment for not more than six months, A recent study on the economic impact of rock climbing. He’s keen on trad and bouldering, and sport as well. I had a very positive experience, learned so much and had a great time climbing many interesting and fun routes. HOME. Great service overall! Park managers are concerned about the impacts of visitors and climbers in the areas of soil erosion and compaction, vegetation damage, human waste disposal, cultural resources, and overcrowding. New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 01. The local climbers I’ve spoken with say that no one they know has ever been fined but it’s worth noting the area’s regulations. Europe, Mexico. There are the NRG itself, the Meadow River Gorge and the Gauley River Gorge, which includes Summersville Lake. Grab your friends, hit the crag, and settle into the post-send glow with a soak in the hot tub. Between these areas, there are thousands of routes! Be safe when climbing in the park. Here is a select list of crags with dry rock in the rain. The Greatest Show area is the cream of the crop and includes Lynn Hill’s Greatest Show On Earth (5.13a trad) and perhaps the first 5.14a in the East, Scott Franklin’s Mango Tango. Thank you for subscribing to our newsletter. What’s everyone else coming for? The prices are reasonable for groups, though they surely explode a dirtbagger’s budget. Photos by Pablo Durana - The "New" is one of the premier climbing destinations on the east coast with thousands of good sandstone pitches from steep sport climbs to splitter crack routes. The New is a better option for more advanced and all-around climbers than the Red River Gorge, the better-known sport climbing mecca four hours west. The Greater NRG consists of three concentrated climbing sectors: The New River Gorge National River, the Meadow River, and Summersville Lake (Gauley River). If Clint Eastwood were an East Coast climbing cowboy, the New River Gorge would be his home. Email Us. The area splits between crags upstream and downstream from the Highway 19 bridge. Camping New River Gorge climbing in Fayetteville West Virginia is considered to be some of the best in the world and consistently rated in the top 5 by climbing magazine. With this large number of visitors, park issues develop that can only be solved through everyone's cooperation. The same goes for parking; only do so in designated areas as this is becoming an increasing problem with law enforcement. There are many areas of private property within the New River Gorge. Over one million people visit New River Gorge each year, thousands of whom are climbers. As it wore away, it left the step-like roofs you’ll encounter. ... Red River Gorge, KY. More Info. Okay, I dared. Please try again or contact us at email@example.com and we’ll resolve the problem. Please, climb smart! The New River Gorge and surrounding areas have lots of steep rock so there is still dry rock out there in a storm to climb. AKA, bring your head game. If climbing on granite and climbing on sandstone had offspring, it’d climb like Nuttall sandstone. (optional). Sandstonia. New River Gorge is the first National Park in the great state of West Virginia. Friendly & knowledgeable climbing guides for New River Gorge. New River Gorge, West Virginia. The majority of routes are 5.9 and harder, and most sport routes fall in the 5.10 - 5.12 range. Grant has been climbing for over 12 years and teaching in the outdoor industry for a decade. Respect all gate, fences, and no trespassing signs. Then there’s Meadow Top, which has the region’s highest concentration of moderates, and the Sunshine Boulders, picturesquely situated under the longest single-span arch bridge in the U.S. It’s chock full of quirky shops, bars, and restaurants. Classic climbs begin at 5.10+ for trad and 5.11+ for sport. Development of this platform was partially funded by EU. Built in 1974, the New River Gorge Bridge spans over 3,000 feet and connects the east and west banks of the river. The main sector, known as the New River Gorge Proper, contains the most developed and accessible crags in the park. The Junkyard and Bridge Buttress crags are popular with beginners because of their easy access and lower grades. Routes are apt to change stylistically as you ascend them, adding another variable to the puzzle. He found some awesome climbs for us despite the weather and generally made sure we had a great time. The parks are a mix of public and private property and the rules need to be carefully followed to maintain copacetic relations with landowners. Climbing has inherent risks and hazards, and is a potentially dangerous activity. Showers New River Gorge National Park and Preserve has become one of the most popular rock climbing areas in the country. As John Sherman said in his book Stone Crusade, “The New would be a bouldering mecca if not for all those damn cliffs!”. You’ve got to ask yourself one question: Do you feel lucky? Routes meander through Cirque du Soleil body contortions as you reach for sharp crimps, finger-thin mail slots, in-cut edges, arêtes and laybacks, globular slopers, and frequent finger and hand jams. Of course, bouldering is also an option! As you can imagine, this tends to be the most trafficked area during hot weather, though it also makes for a winter destination as its south-facing rocks tend to soak up the sun. Check here for more information. It boasts four-star sport and trad lines and has one of the highest concentrations of boulders in the Mid-Atlantic, not to mention water-side cliffs that are reminiscent of Thailand. Southside Crags: This is the area on the left side of the river. Even though the New River Gorge (combined with the nearby crags of Summersville Lake, Meadow River and Gauley River) can be seen as one of the biggest and best climbing areas of the US it is internationally less known and generally less visited than the Red river Gorge that is just a day drive away. New River Gorge Climbing The New River Gorge is one of the most popular rock climbing areas in the country. Dare I say? The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. If you need any gear or beta, visit the storied climbing shop, Water Stone Outdoors. New River Gorge Outdoor and Climbing Gear. Sign up for the 57hours newsletter and join our growing community of outdoor adventurers. The New River is ancient and has pretty much existed in the same spot since before there were Appalachian Mountains. Our rock climbing instruction school is the premier guide service in the New River Gorge. TRIP PLANNING. Climbing Area Description This climbing mecca is located in the beautiful New River Gorge National River, with over 1500 routes on impeccable (well, usually) Nutall sandstone. It may seem like semantics, but climbers must stay within the legal limits or risk personal injury, steep fines (up to $5,000), and/or imprisonment for not more than six months. Zero Buttress is suitable for moderate routes, while First Buttress is steep (and hard) but stays dry. Please note that climbers make a significant contribution to the local economy! Please try again, or contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org and we’ll resolve the problem. The use of motorized drills is by permit only. This task is obviously a difficult one, balancing resource protection and visitor use. There are many private campgrounds located within easy driving distance from the climbing areas. The New River Gorge — or NRG, as it’s commonly known — offers diverse climbing and over 3,000 established routes total, which is why it’s one of the best places to rock climb in the USA. Really friendly and relaxed. The Sunkist Wall has moderate lines. Impromptu New River Gorge Climbing Trip. For example, the aptly named Endless Wall is three miles of unbroken cliff-line. New & Gauley River Adventures: Family-owned for more than 30 years, they offer a range of white water rafting adventures from trips for families with little kids on the Upper New River to the challenging rapids of the Lower Fauley. As a result, the river has maintained its course by cutting a narrow trough through the emerging range. In case of emergency, call 911. Fishing is one of the most popular activities on the New River. The aptly named Summersville Lake offers a respite from the heat, as it can be breezy, shady, and of course, comes with plenty of swimming. There’s a preponderance of grades from 5.8 to 5.13, with some lines up to 100 feet long, and others severely overhung. American climber Jonathan Siegrist has redpointed a longstanding project in the New River Gorge, West Virginia: Full Metal Brisket (5.15a).It climbs a steep line up hardened West Virginia sandstone with notoriously bad holds. Nothing like a last minute New River Gorge climbing trip! Red Rock, NV. At Meadow River Gorge, you are likely to encounter private property en route to the crags. To begin, the New River Gorge National River is administered by the National Park Service and should be treated as a national park. New River Climbing School: Specializing in instruction for beginners through advanced climbers, they offer plenty of options for families looking for a weekend of climbing. There are plenty of options, but here’s just a few: The American Alpine Club campground has become the climber epicenter. Gym rats will find these chess matches difficult to muscle through, as I found out (guilty as charged!). Aaron is a climber and freelance writer. Set upon the backdrop of the New River Gorge, you are sure to get amazing views as you climb up rocks and rappel down. About New River Gorge Region: Almost all of the climbing in and around the world famous New River Gorge actually exists in one of three river gorges or a tributary thereof. Arrowhead Bike Farm is a new addition to the mix that offers easy access to Kaymoor. They are usually open from the second week of March to about the first of December. To be there for a weekend or a summer it’s all the same because when you’re there, nothing else matters, it’s a timeless place. Please do not bathe in the restrooms at park visitor centers. Leave historical and natural objects undisturbed for the next visitor. He writes about, you guessed it, climbing, travel (17 countries and counting), and has been featured in publications such as Rock and Ice, goEast, and The Project Magazine. When you’re 60 feet in the air clinging to a sheer stone face with a few fingers and toes, you may not be thinking about the amazing views, but rock climbing in the New River Gorge is breathtaking in more ways than one. Opossum Creek Retreat offers rustic decadence with decked out cabins in the heart of the park. See the camping page for more information. The rock here is harder than granite (though no match for Mr. Eastwood, of course). All their head instructors are AMGA certified rock instructors or single-pitch instructors. Download our free app and discover your next adventure today! We send bi-weekly updates on new stories and trip discounts, 57hours mobile app is the easiest way to book a guide. The New River Gorge sees over one million visitors each year, and only a handful of those are climbers. Got more time? The best months are usually late April to mid-June, and mid-September to late October. Their guides are PCGI (Professional Climbing Guides Institute) certified. Endless Wall can keep you occupied for a lifetime, as each jump in climbing ability unlocks dozens of new classics to project. You’ll find over 3,000 established routes to discover in the area, attracting rock climbers from all over the world. Do not trespass, as tensions have ebbed and flowed. Many of the climbing locations are located miles from roads, and rescue is difficult. 25846. Each area is, at most, a half-hour drive from Fayetteville, WV, and everything is located north of town along Highway 19. Erosion takes much longer than usual because the rock is so hard; the gorge is still only 900ft deep despite its age. New River Mountain Guides: Climber owned and operated since 1994, and run in conjunction with Water Stone Outdoors. It’s only a few hours from the Red River Gorge, but the sandstone at the New River Gorge feels completely different: think sharp crimps, mail slots, and massive slopers, instead of juggy pockets.While the routes are equally demanding, there is a steep learning curve, and climbers fresh off a sending spree at the Red frequently get shut down as they adjust. We maintain a low camper to guide ratio of 4 to 1 to maximize experiential learning time on the rock. Visit the ghost town of Nuttallburg, a former bustling mining community from the turn of the 19th century. Food and Water With that said, it’s hard to beat the variety of fresh local craft beer on tap. Picture a lush green landscape with miles and miles of picturesque cliffs. “Almost Heaven, West Virginia.” The New River Gorge has it all — trad, sport, bouldering, and enough routes to keep you climbing for a lifetime (more than 3000, to be exact). Read more. Just one caveat (and a note to the newbies): The New is best suited for the hard-charging climber who likes a challenge. Luckily, the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) has done an excellent job of advocating for access over the years. Do not trespass on private land! Blue Ridge Mountain Guides is the only AMGA Accredited Business operating at the New River Gorge. Meadow River Gorge is for more adventurous and remote climbing, even though it’s just 15 minutes north of NRG Proper. This tropical-lite destination features over 300 bolted and trad routes alongside and above the clear blue water of Summersville Lake. You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the link in our emails. Primitive camping is allowed on park property. "The New" has become one of the most popular climbing areas in the country. More Info. Box 246, 104 Main Street Tackle the cliffs in the 1,000 foot New River Gorge on a Lower New climbing and rappelling trip. Within the park are over 1,400 established rock climbs. What can begin as a bouldery tiered-roof (my favorite!) The adventure stories you want in your inbox. The Other Place is well-populated with moderate sport routes and generally stays in the shade. Subscribe to our newsletter to receive a discount and updates on 57hours offers, webinars, and reviews. The climbing season at New River extends from April through November. Fern Buttress, a popular climbing spot on the north rim of the New River Gorge near the NRG Bridge, is home to some of the more than 1600 established climbing routes in the gorge. Blue Ridge Mountain Guides: An American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Accredited Business that provides climbing instruction and guiding for beginners to pros that is above and beyond expectations. We love the area, we love what we do, and we know what we are doing. You’ll have the opportunity to sample some of the world-famous routes that make the New River Gorge synonymous with world-class rock climbing. "The New" has become one of the most popular climbing areas in the country. That’s high praise for a discipline that currently takes a backseat in the area. There are many areas of private property within the New River Gorge, including some within the park boundary. Within the 63,000 acres of New River Gorge National River are over 1,400 established rock climbs. Book Online. He’d eat the bullet-hard Nuttall with Nutella for breakfast, savor the thrill of high first clips, rejoice in brain-and-body-busting maneuvers, and wash it all down with pure-line bouldering alongside one of the oldest rivers in North America. Biergarten ( beer garden ) Gorge would be his home selling quality outdoor gear in,. Lower Meadow: you ’ ll resolve the problem future generations head instructors are AMGA certified rock or. 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